Maybe you have just one afternoon to spare in the Zadar area. Maybe you’re the kind of person who takes food seriously — really seriously. Or maybe what you love most about travelling is the moment you step into someone else’s ordinary life and find it extraordinary. Any of these paths leads to the same…
There is a moment in early September when something shifts along the Dalmatian coast. The last of the summer crowds board their ferries and flights home. The tavernas exhale. The sea, still warm from three months of sun, settles into a kind of glassy calm that July never quite manages. The light changes and does…
Most people who visit the Dalmatian coast see the fishing boats from a distance. White hulls bobbing in the harbour at dawn, nets piled on the quayside, a figure moving quietly in the early light. They photograph it, perhaps, and walk on to find breakfast. We went a different way. We went for a morning…